Yes.
Routers & pin router for thin sheet and pattern copying.
Table saw for plate & bar stock up to about 2 - 3" thick (depends on W x L, don't like sawing small parts).
Sometimes wood bandsaw with reserved/dedicated claw-tooth regular steel blade for aluminum chunks and castings over maybe 2" thick on up. (there's nothing special about the blade, it's just one that doesn't owe me anything more for wood & still has enough set not to bind in aluminum). Generally the 30" woodwhacking bandsaw is much faster than the metal cutting bandsaw, which is geared for steel.
For small parts pattern copying, Thomson table or pantograph with either wood router bits, or sometime endmills.
Also using woodworking tools to cut up the sheet steel and metal (steel) studs for the canopy oven on-going build this past week.
Router with aux speed control & 3/16" carbide tooth bit for cut-outs and trimming, Battery op skilsaw for straight cuts against a batten. Old, superheavy all cast iron early Rockwell trim carpenter chop saw for cut-off with triple chip non-ferrous blade. (works ok on Fe anyway
). I do have a Milwaukee metal cutting (skil-type) saw for cutting up heavy steel plate, but the blades are expensive and chip on sheet metal. Also the battery op with a metal roofing blade on it, is lighter.
smt
PS- All the aircraft manufacturers used what were essentially either woodworking pin routers and spindle shapers for contour duplicating aluminum sheet metal parts. Or OEM beefed-up versions of same for the industry, until well into the computer age.