Nicely done Chucker! You clearly have an eye & skills for details and 'clean' craftsmanship!
I really like the diff. brake/rudder pedal layout ya got here. Next new mod. for my bird is a break away TW and diff. brakes on the rudder pedals. Im now encouraged & seriously considering an approximate clone of your set up for mine!
However, from the view in the pic, the pedals (appear) to be angled (quite a bit) forward, rather than more (upright), which makes it easier to keep your heels planted firmly on the floor and off the brake pedals until desired.
Could this cause some tendency for the feet to perhaps unintentionally, slide-up and press the brake(s) when only attempting to sway the rudder during taxi, TO & landing? Not being a busy-body-snark here...just asking...
oops...I think I just answered my own (stupid) question...
On 2nd look at the pic...I see that the rudder cables are disconnected FRONT rudder pedals, & THATS WHY the REAR pedals are so far forward!
My-bad bro! sorry bout-dat! :
First engine run with cowling on. Ran for 25 minutes at 2000 RPM and excursions to 3100 RPM. CHT stabilized around 420 F and oil worked its way up to 210 F....but it took 25 minutes to get there. Without any ram air, I am thinking that the cooling is sufficient. However, I have read too many stories about first flight emergencies because of high temperatures. I just want to get your thoughts about these numbers running with the cowl and no ram air. Thanks!
I completed the weight and balance. Her final empty weight (without wheel pants) is 582.5 pounds. That includes handheld radio, intercom, and 3 quarts of oil. The empty cg is 6.7 inches without any ballast.... but there are two 6V batteries and an ELT in the tail section. The tailwheel weighed in at 27.5# in a flying attitude. This fuselage has added supports aft of the cockpit to prevent scalloping from fabric tension. I throw all this out because it is a big guessing game as to where one's final cg will land. The engine is a Revmaster 2100D with no flywheel, alternator, or starter. If it had all that up front, I would likely need ballast in the back.... My takeaway is that anyone planning to use a starter and alternator up front should put their battery and other discretionary items in the tail if at all possible.
Yeah, the cowling needs some finish work and paint....but I'm anxious to get the annual done and see how she flies. As for the spinner....I plan to experiment. I'm going to fly her "as is" at first. Then I will try a Sonex type spinner/crush plate or maybe a Continental dome. Then, perhaps, a traditional spinner. Doing that will call for reworking the cowl to bridge the gap left by the long Revmaster prop flange. If you watch the video about the AR-5 world record flight, the builder asserts that the airplane creates its own virtual spinner with the pressure wave. He had trouble keeping his spinner on and found that the airplane was just as fast with no spinner at all. If its not there, it costs nothing, weighs nothing, and is 100% reliable. I stole that line from another forum. Besides, I can check my oil without a door or having to remove the cowl.
My first attempt at spreading the wings took about an hour. Much of that was eaten up because some of the washers and spacers were made for specific locations and I had to play around to get everything where the original builder intended.
I believe that I can get the process down to 15-20 minutes with some practice. A second set of hands would shave some time. The biggest factor was not having any fresh lubricant with me at the airport. I moved to the hangar ill-prepared and was too anxious about getting the wings spread and the W&B completed. If the support tube is not well lubed it becomes difficult to get the spar started in the carry through. Once started, it wasn't too difficult to get the wings in...even without lube. The final alignment for the taper pins becomes the next issues. I had to suck the pins in with the nuts. With one of the pins I had to stop from time to time, wiggle the wing tip up and down, then get a few more turns on the nut. Lubrication would have helped.
Something to consider when drilling the wing/carry through and setting the carry through in the fuselage: If you have to lift the wingtip to align the holes it will be extra difficult to get the pins in place singlehanded. In my other project, the previous builder already set the carry through. When I set the wings I plan to shave the top of the spar on the higher wing until it naturally sits down with the lower wing....but I am wide open to suggestions on the best way to make this work.
CHT's for running on the ground for 25 mins are OK - where are you measuring CHT...head nut of spark plug? OIl - mine doesn't get above 190. I block the oil 'smile' air intake too. It'll run cooler when flying - 210 on the ground after 25 mins is fine.
For first flight:
1. wing pins in and locked
2. fuel flow is good
3. making spark
4. clean air filter
5. canopy locked
6. fly the numbers
OAT was in the high 70's. My CHT is according to Revmaster engine manual. I removed the ring and inserted the wire into a hole drilled in the cylinder head bolt boss adjacent to the #3 exhaust port. Its held in place with a perpendicular set screw. It probably reads the same as having the ring under the head nut...but I don't know. The Revmaster CHT limitations are similar to everyone else... 300-450 Green, 450-500 Yellow, 500+ Red.
We do the annual next Tuesday. I will taxi a bunch before first flight
Thanks for the first flight tips. I've checked everything on your list except the last two.
N136DE moved under her own power yesterday. We took a little trip to the warmup area and back to the hangar. She tracks straight, brakes straight, and the temperatures and pressures still look good.
I have the standard Sonerai t/w and spring. It's like a needle on a record player....as to say that I heard and felt every pebble on the taxiway. I'm assuming that is normal. Everything looked great when I got back.