Rivetting Sonerai 1 wings

[stevebaldwin]

The wing skins are formed and pilot drilled and ready to dimpled. Will use A D bucked rivets on the top skin , and on the bottom skin as far as possible ,finish off with flush pop rivets.
I have fitted the S.MOD as per the plans ,and the 1 .1/4 x1.1/4 x 3 foot angle prevents dimpling and bucking for A D rivets ( skin to spar ). Just tried for size to get an idea the C C P 42 pop rivets are just too long . Aircraft spruce show C C P 41 but no size spec . Would they have enough grip length?.
I have looked on the Search page and have Freds CDs and build manual, but not found a answer to my problem.
I would be grateful for any help as how other builders have got round this problem.
Thank you.

 

[Raceair]

Possible solution..Fit the S mod angle, have all drilling and de-burring done, but then remove the angle so the skin to spar flange riveting can be done. Then, re-install the S mod Angle and continue on…...

 

[Raceair]

I should have added that on the Formula Vees we 'Bolted' this angle in, using AN-3 bolts rather than long rivets….I Have not seen the drawings that exist today for the S mod…. Ed

 

[racegunz]

I just got done adding the mods to my project wings this winter, I did as Ed mentioned, flush riveted the top THEN riveted in the angle. Yes CCP 42's are too long for the skins to rib attachment except where the skins overlap or at the aileron hinges, CCP 41's never seem to be in-stock at Spruce?
Avex rivets will work can't remember part # though.

 

[wbpace]

One of the nice things about pulled (pop) rivets is you can usually sneak it in a little bit deeper as it starts to shorten while you are pulling it, by continuing to press down on the head so that it lowers that last little smidgen until the shank expands to fill the hole. That little trick may be just enough to get you by. But be careful that it does not expand too much before you are fully seated.

Another possibility would be to drill through the wing skin, spar, and into the angle so you can extend the mandrel head into the angle. This would work only if the depth required is no more than depth of the mandrel head (unless you back drill the angle to enlarge the hole a bit). You don't want it to start gripping in the angle! Note that I can't speak what affect this hole in the angle would have on wing strength (if any).

Be advised that if you are going to use flush rivets, you need CCC, not CCP rivets. But if you are that tight on room, you may not have the space needed to dimple it to begin with.

By the way, I'm planning to do the same: AN rivets except above the angle and on the bottom where CCC becomes necessary.

O'Bill

 

[stevebaldwin]

To Raceair, racegunz, and wbpace.
Thank you for your interest help and surpport .