Sonerai 1 A-Mod Angle Length

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acrojohn

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Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Messages
101
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Re: Ed's response to the S-1 Prototype Virtual Tour.

I'm integrating the mod now into the new wings from the start of the build.
My first question is based on the A-Wing Mod for a Sonerai I. I have plans for the angle modification on the 9 rib Sonerai II and the Sonerai II LTS, But I do not have any drawings for the Sonerai I A-Mod. Both sets of S-2 plans show the two-piece reinforcement angles ending 43” down the wing from the spar flange root. Is there a similar dimension for the length of the Sonerai I angle?
I have modified the wings to include 3 more ribs per panel. The inner 48 inches use the rib spacing of the Sonerai II LTS providing structure for a wing walk and more anti-drag/compression reinforcement. The outer 40-1/8” use the rib spacing of the Sonerai 1. The lightening hole spacing is also similar for the respective inner/outer II LTS and S-I hole specifications. Spar cap lengths have been originally cut and drilled per the Sonerai I plans, but I am considering replacing these original upper caps with longer lengths rather than using filler strips to provide a foundation for the angle piece. I would also rather use a one-piece angle of the required length, rather than splicing two pieces. I plan on trimming the bottom of the angle 1/8” and lower it to be even with the lower side of the upper caps so I can better dimple the upper spar flange and rivet on the skin. AN3 bolts will also be used on the angles and verticals so I can remove the reinforcing angles cap angles if required to dimple the upper spar flange before riveting up the wing. Any thoughts? Once I get some guidance on the length of the reinforcing angle I'll be making progress again. I'm a month into retirement and it is good to be working on the plane again.
One more thing - what is the best way to Alumaprep and Alodine these big parts before riveting?

Thanks
John
 

racegunz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
318
I also did not like the splice idea .With my wings I made the shorter cap strips equal to the 48” and then went with a 48” angle. If you do this after riveting the top skins you will not have to space it down at all.
 

phzabriskie

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Joined
Jan 18, 2006
Messages
2,255
Location
Santa Fe, New Mexico
One more thing - what is the best way to Alumaprep and Alodine these big parts before riveting?

I am assuming, (a dangerous thing in itself), that you want to prep these parts before installation. I read and used the method of going to Home Depot and buying a length of plastic home gutter and a pair of the end caps. Gluing the end caps with plumbers glue and filling this terrific tray with my toxic substances for full immersion. The hardest part of it all is finding a waste disposal vendor to take the used alodine after you are done. Please do, the stuff is highly carcinogenic. Good luck. -Pete
 

racegunz

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Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
318
All that stuff is old tech I will be using epoxy primer in the future.
 

pilotsailing

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Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
311
The most improtant part of alodining parts is getting them clean . I wash my parts with water mixed with 1/2 cup tsp to 1 gallon very hot water. I wash them with a maroon scotchbrite pad . Then immediately rinse them very thoughly in clean water. I then scotchbrite them again with alumiprep mixed 1 to 3 in water, then immediately rinse with clean water again. Then immerse them if you can in alodine for 3 -5 minutes and then immediately rinse again . let dry and then you are ready for epoxy primer. This process has worked for me. :)
 

oahupilot

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Joined
Aug 2, 2008
Messages
531
racegunz said:
All that stuff is old tech I will be using epoxy primer in the future.
I use epoxy primer on everything, however all the ones I have used so far still require a conversion coating. Most DTM(Direct to metal) primers,the ones you would use without conversion coating are acidic, which I am not supper keen on using on aluminum. DTM primers are generally meant for steel not aluminum. I have had mixed result when using epoxy primer on aluminum with out a conversion coating. Generally very rough surfaces do OK but smooth surfaces seem to lack adhesion with out a conversion coating.

I however do not use alumiprep or alodine either, I find it more convenient to use ekoetch. Less of a hassle, easier to deal with and it has worked very well on my plane.
 

kennyw

2nd and current "Caretaker" N994SP
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
126
Location
Mount Vernon, WA
Don't know why my post turned up here. Wrong forum even. :-[ :-\

no delete button -------------------------------?????????????????????
 

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