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Wing building pipes

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n3480h1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 24, 2009
Messages
1,522
Location
Iowa
My plans call for 2" water pipe which runs through the nose and aft ribs when building the wings. Not knowing better, I went to the local hardware store and asked for the price of two 10 foot long pieces of pipe. $175 was the price. Too much $ for a one time use item. I then asked the price for two 10 foot pieces of metal EMT conduit. Price was $40 for two. The 2" EMT is extremely stiff and straight. They are now slid into my wing jig, awaiting the wing components. Hopefully this information may save builders some cash.

Currently, my ribs are formed and lined, the main spar is fully drilled, deburred and dimpled where required, spar caps and end plates are match drilled to the spar and marked for position. Now working on the rear spars. It's a LOT of holes, guys - and there are a lot more to come when the wings get skinned.

In the meantime, I have read the posts about the dip in the skin just above the spar, and I am determined to prevent that on these wings. I also have to decide if and how I want to utilize the first two nose rib bays as aux fuel. If I do that, I think I'll make two custom nose ribs for each side.
 
OOPs, forgot to hit the quote button; I was responding to this " It's a LOT of holes, guys - and there are a lot more to come when the wings get skinned."


So true – I’m a ways behind you, but just drilling and deburing the four long strips this week gave me cramps in my wrists… I can hardly wait until I have to tackle the stacks, let alone the spar/ribs (oh well… one bite at a time… ;)).

Am still curious about the various wing-tank arrangements. Don’t’ know that it has ever been an issue, but my phobia doesn’t make me comfortable sandwiched between front and rear tanks of gas, so the wings are it for aux… doesn’t appear the LE variety (assuming two bays, wet) will hold more than about 3 gallons per wing – has anyone attempted any sort of tanks behind the spar?
 
Gaston has a method for behind the spar wing tanks, special rib and some sealer is working for him.
One thing to remind those getting ready to drill the skins, make double sure the wing is straight on that jig with no sag in the center! Use a string or a laser, the project wings I got have a slight sag, you don't see it unless you put a string line against it, making the aileron attachment a project in itself!
 
When I built Sonerai Wings, I built them leading edge up, in a jig, and made a firm wood fixture piece that nestled into the rear spar channel, ands glued to the floor of the basement, to keep the rear spar channel perfectly straight, in both directions…..Ed
 
I own a plumbing business. I just called my distributor and my cost on a 21 foot piece of 1-1/2" pipe is $51.46. I'm in Wisconsin.

My distributors are nation wide and probably have a branch near you. Let me know where you live and I can let you use my account and just pay cash. I'm sure I can arrange this for you if that will help. They only sell to Master Plumbers but I could just have my branch manager give the OK.

Mike
 
The saga continues. I'm in the frame of mind that nothing is going to slow or stop wing building. That doesn't happen often, so I will take advantage of it. ;D

The 2" conduit is in fact 2.120". This presented a challenge. A new flanging die was made and the form was opened up a bit. This resulted in a slightly larger lightening hole diameter, which is a slip fit over the conduit.

I do appreciate the comments and offers of help, but it's full speed ahead on the wing building at my house.

Tom
 

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A word of caution, Tom. The ribs go onto the conduit one at a time and a little snugness may not seem troublesome. But when the building is finished the conduit comes out of all of them simultaneously and could put up quite a lot of resistance. Just make sure each hole is a slip fit and you should be alright.

Ed
 
Thanks Ed. When I tested fit of the first rib it was a "machinist's" slip fit, with about .001" clearance. I thought about the time when the tubes would have to be removed . . . and adjusted the process to allow a considerably looser fit.

Tom
 
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